Delicious History Tours at Fortnum & Mason London

Imagine a store that seems to have everything – from fresh vegetables and baked beans to diamond bracelets, tea to handbags favoured by the Royal Family, and candles to the finest lingerie. Located in the heart of Piccadilly, a stone’s throw from some of London’s most famous royal palaces, Fortnum & Mason is one of England’s oldest department stores. What better place to take a Delicious History Tour!

I visit Fortnum & Mason nearly every time I am in London, but back in 2018 I experienced this place in a whole new way on the Fortnum & Mason Delicious History Tour, a behind the scenes peak at everything this beautiful department store has to offer. I enjoyed the tour so much I took it again with my husband in 2021.

Disclosure: I booked and paid for the Fortnum & Mason Delicious History Tour on both occasions. This post is not sponsored and all opinions are my own.

Updated February 2026

Revisiting and updating this post now in February 2026 feels a little bittersweet. Dr Andrea Tanner, the wonderful, knowledgeable guide who led us on the Delicious History tour on both occasions, is no longer with us. Her passion for history and the memory of her fascinating tours will always stay with me.

I have included the details of the Delicious History Tours I took in this update, along with new developments at the store which have taken place in the ensuing years. I have also included some more up to date photographs of Fortnum & Mason today.

At the time of writing, Delicious History Tours are still available. Visit the F&M or Eventbrite website for more details. Read on to find out why I recommend them.

The History of Fortnum & Mason

Fortnum & Mason (often referred to simply as F&M) began as a small shop in St James’ Market, just off Piccadilly, near where the side entrance of the current store is. (Insider tip – I recommend entering through this door. Not only is there often a very attentive doorman, but you avoid the crowds streaming into the popular food halls on the main floor.)

In 1705, an enterprising young Footman in Queen Anne’s Royal Household called William Fortnum started a small business. As a ‘perk’ of his job, William was allowed to take the candle stubs left over from the London Palaces at the end of each day. The enterprising William started melting the candle stubs down and making new candles, which he then sold. These candles were a hit among London’s fashionable households, who loved the idea of having ‘royal’ candles to use in their own homes.

Such was the demand that eventually Fortnum persuaded landlord Hugh Mason to go into business with him in 1707. The business grew from strength to strength, and the Scotch Egg was invented here in 1738 as a way to capitalise on hungry travellers who needed portable provisions. This later led to F&M’s famous hampers and the business expanding into the rest of the building over the ensuing 300 plus years. Customers have included royalty, heads of state, stars of stage and screen and plenty of ordinary folks too!

The Delicious History Tour

The Delicious History Tour takes you almost behind the scenes, sharing the highlights of this beautiful, constantly evolving store. On both occasions our tour began on the fifth floor. It’s hard not to be impressed by the richly panelled walls, luxurious fabrics, ornate carvings and chandeliers. 

We toured The Boardroom, home to meetings of the F&M board for over 300 years, now also used for Private Dining which can be booked for gatherings and celebrations. There are a good few stories around these ‘upper rooms’ and we were assured that F&M definitely has resident ghosts, some of whom are allegedly more friendly than others.

A Red Carpet Welcome

I was interested to learn that the plush red carpet, which lines the beautiful main staircases in the store, is there because Fortnum & Mason want customers to feel they are honoured guests.

The late Dr Tanner explained that, even if you are simply visiting the store to use their rather beautiful restrooms, F&M want you to feel welcome. Chairs and sofas are tucked in quiet corners on nearly every floor (although I did notice on my most recent visit in February 2026 that there are fewer now than before.)

If you are in need of sustenance, there are plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from, including one of my favourite London restaurants, 45 Jermyn Street, located just behind the main store and accessed by a separate entrance.

As we walked down the stairs, Dr Tanner explained the significance of the paintings that line the walls as we walked. Historic connections with the Royal College of Art and the Bloomsbury Group mean that F&M has a huge, very impressive art collection. It’s easy to miss these paintings as you traverse the main staircase and they are also scattered throughout the store, so do keep your eyes open.

The Floors of Delights at Fortnum & Mason

Please bear in mind that in the UK, the floor you enter a building on is called the Ground Floor, and the next one up is level 1. Anything below the ground floor is referred to as ‘lower ground”.

The Fourth Floor and The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon

Moving downwards from the fifth floor, our next stop on the Delicious History Tour was The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon on the fourth floor.

Opened by The late Queen Elizabeth II, The Duchess of Cambridge and The Duchess of Cornwall in 2012, the year of the Queen’s Diamon Jubilee, this is one of the best places to enjoy Afternoon Tea in London. My family and I love our visits here.

With 200 varieties of tea and the most beautiful sandwiches, scones and cakes, there’s definitely something to please the most discerning guests.

The Third Floor of F&M

Back in 2018 when I first took the Delicious History Tour, the third floor was a treasure trove of, in Dr Tanner’s words, “gifts for the man who thinks he has everything”  From bespoke wallets, to handmade sweaters, buttery leather suitcases and valise to accessories for cycling and exploring. There was even a (much missed by my husband and son) barber shop.

These days the Third Floor is home to something even more exciting – F&M’s Food and Drink Studio. This is the venue for masterclasses, intimate dining experiences and events hosted by famous chefs. The remaining space is now dedicated to all kinds of kitchen accoutrements, vintage cookbooks and a fabulous gin still named Amalthea.

The third floor is also the home of Fortnum & Mason’s hamper department, where you can order ready made or bespoke hampers. Simply fill a basket with the things you would like to include and head to the third floor to choose a hamper which will then be packed by their experts. You can take the hamper with you, or they will arrange for it to be sent to the lucky recipient of your choice.

The History of Fortnum & Mason Hampers

No Delicious History Tour at Fortnum and Mason would be complete without learning more about their famous hampers.

If you were travelling through Piccadilly about 300 years ago, you might well choose to stay at one of the many pubs and hotels that lined the street. Before the journey continued the next day, a visit to Fortnum & Mason would provide you will all the things you might need to continue your journey, all beautifully packed in a traveller’s basket.

Over the centuries, these traveller’s baskets evolved into the luxury hampers we enjoy today. I have both given and received these hampers, and whatever the occasion, they are a delight. I’m always excited when I see F&M’s signature eau de nil coloured packaging!

The 3’6 Bar

Another highlight of the third floor is the 3’6 Bar – pronounced “3 and 6” so named because back in the day, 3 shillings and sixpence was the cost of F&M bringing a cocktail party to you so you could host it in your own home. This service is no longer offered, but I can imagine it would be a lot more expensive today!

Filled with comfy chairs, beautiful artwork and magazines, 3’6 a great place to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a drink or snack. Don’t miss the portable antique pool table, which once belonged to Queen Victoria’s son, the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, located by the entrance.

The Second Floor

There is an extensive beauty section on the second floor, along with a home fragrance section and a personal fragrance department too. The ladies restrooms are also located on this floor.

The First Floor

On the first floor we browsed through a huge selection of homeware, china, kitchenware and beautifully designed picnic baskets. We tried cute mini iced cream cones at The Parlour, F&M’s ice cream parlour. Their salted caramel ice cream is divine! If you have kids, I highly recommend taking afternoon tea at The Parlour. I include it on my list of places to have afternoon tea in London.

The first floor is also home to some fashion and accessories as well as a jewellery department where there really is something for everyone.

The Ground Floor

The ground floor food hall offers the most glorious selection of teas, coffees, jams, chocolate and candy. I was delighted when Dr Tanner took us to the confectionery counter and we were allowed to taste one thing – anything we wanted. My pistachio Turkish Delight was amazing.

The photo above was taken on a more recent visit in 2025, when I got to the store very early. Normally this section is quite busy.

The Lower Ground Floor

Don’t miss the lower ground floor with a further food hall and wines and spirits cellar. You can also buy completely cooked meals to take away, as well as meat, cheese, vegetables and all manor of bespoke ingredients. There are all kinds of wines and spirits, as well as a wine bar.

Highlights at Fortnum & Mason

Be sure to look up at the amazing ceilings! Many are as beautiful as those I have seen in stately homes. Unless you are unable to climb stairs, give the lifts a miss and really explore this amazing store.

Not only is there a main staircase, most floors have both front and back stairs, and the Double Helix Staircase was opened in 2025.

The Double Helix Staircase

Inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s vision of a double helix staircase, similar to the one he is reputed to have designed at the Château de Chambord, Fortnum & Mason’s beautiful double helix staircase which opened in 2025 took two years to build. Designed by Ben Pentreath, the two staircases appear to be one, however they actually ribbon their way around one another allowing shoppers to ascend and descend from the Lower Ground Floor to Second without actually encountering one another.

And Finally, A Cup of Tea

How better to end a Delicious Histories Tour at Fortnum and Mason than with a cup of tea? On both the Delicious History Tours, we descended into the crypt off the lower ground floor to find pots of tea brewing and the table laid with samples of many of the delicacies on offer at F&M.

Thick slices of artisanal bread, cheese, pickles, Scotch eggs (both traditional and curried), paté and charcuterie filled the antique table. All of the products are of course available at F&M, and I couldn’t wait to go shopping!

We thoroughly enjoyed both Delicious History Tours at Fortnum and Mason, and at the time of writing, there are some still available. Visit the F&M or Eventbrite websites for more up to date details. Tours book up very quickly, so it’s worth signing up for updates to stay ahead of the curve.

Disclosure: This post is not sponsored and all opinions are my own. I am a huge fan of F&M products and services and purchase from the regularly. I have also purchased A Friends of Fortnum’s Membership.

Information is correct to the best of my knowledge at the time of writing, but like all department stores, F&M is constantly evolving. I am not responsible for any changes that may occur post publication. The Delicious History Tour may also have new or different features. Please check the F&M website for opening times and the most up to date information.

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